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Thread: Car not starting, seems to be fuel related.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario
    Posts
    23

    Default Car not starting, seems to be fuel related.

    Powerplant: Non Vanos M50

    Symptoms:
    Car won't run. It will crank and then catch but won't run. Even when pedal is pressed down, it will just die like immediately, nano seconds after it catchs. It would stay alive for a second or two if we sprayed some quick-start into the afm but after that it would die.

    Before this the car would run fine on initial start up and run fine for a little while maybe a couple of minutes and then it would start to missfire bad

    Tried remedies and thought processes:

    First thought it was the fuel relay - Changed, same problem

    Then moved on to the fuel pump thought it was bad, changed it. Same thing.
    (Tested the fuel pump, in position two it would not turn on, it would only start to spin or hum while cranking)



    Checked over the intake manifold for vacuum leaks, I know number 9 seems to cause people problems a bit but it was connected and in quite snuggly.

    There is also a hose that connects to the intake boot underneath it, I also checked that to make sure it was in. Still nothing.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    572

    Default

    Fuel filter, battery charge, idle valve?

    CD43,Style 21s,K&N Insert,White blinkers,LED 3rd brakelight,HIDs,front Monroe sportsshocks/Weitec 35 springs,540 Calipers, Zimmermann Discs and Textar pads.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Battery is good, Fuel filter will get done on Monday that was one of my thoughts as well.

    Idle control valve, I think with that not working it should at least be able to run with me giving it gas no?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Oldham, England
    Posts
    3,078

    Default

    Lets assume you are not parked on a hill and have low fuel level. The pump only runs when you are cranking or if the engine is running. Jumper the relay and check your fuel pressure. Easiest place to T in would be at item 15:
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...47&hg=13&fg=15
    Put a rag underneath when you put the T in as the rail will empty itself. Pressure should be about 50psi. Pull the jumper and check the gauge doesnt drop too

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Thanks Whiskychaser. I'll try that. So pretty much I would assume that negates the crank position sensor as I am getting the fuel pump coming on at the proper times.

    Suppose I'm not getting enough pressure, what would likely be the cause of that and what would be some remedies to the situation?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,843

    Default

    Even with low pressure it should start, I would venture CPS first in this situation.

    Quote Originally Posted by Makaveli2k View Post
    Thanks Whiskychaser. I'll try that. So pretty much I would assume that negates the crank position sensor as I am getting the fuel pump coming on at the proper times.

    Suppose I'm not getting enough pressure, what would likely be the cause of that and what would be some remedies to the situation?
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
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    Default

    I thought the FP only comes on when the ECU says so, which is only at cranking position or when the engine is turning (ie the lower of the two front sensors, the CPS). Not sure if the Cam sensor has any hand in causing this trouble, but if causing trouble the ECU would not co-ordinate 12V feed to the FP - or give no spark.

    I think they use an 'activity check' to govern the FP mainly to ensure the FP shuts off after an accident...

    Have you also checked that you have spark and that the FPR vacuum line is OK? It is right up the back of the inlet manifold and only a small person's hand can really get to both ends- one on the inner side of the manifold and the other on the FPR. I managed it but my hands hardly a gorilla's and it was painful. Inspect and perhaps replace, air leak in there causes the wrong, or no FP.

    The other end of the ICV line to number 9 (yea number 9 is a freak. Mine gives me little confidence of a seal either, have replaced 3 times already).

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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    4,894

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    Crank Position Sensor!!!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by genphreak View Post
    I thought the FP only comes on when the ECU says so, which is only at cranking position or when the engine is turning (ie the lower of the two front sensors, the CPS). Not sure if the Cam sensor has any hand in causing this trouble, but if causing trouble the ECU would not co-ordinate 12V feed to the FP - or give no spark.
    This is what I thought, if it was a bad crank position, than I would have no power at the fuel pump, or no spark. But I clearly have both of those because the car isn't just Cranking. It's cranking and then runs/catchs, but instantly dies with like no pause in between.

    I can't hold the gas to keep it running it will still die instantly.

    ??????

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,894

    Default

    What car do you have?

    Fuel pressure regulator is possible too.

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