Pull the drive train as a unit. I always do.
Found this in the archives about removing the M30 engine.
Same or diffierent with the M50? Bentley says remove tranny from under car first, then pull engine. Was tempted to pull just the engine and leave the tranny in place.
What convertor or pump issues are raised with separating and joining?
Thanks in advance
Link to my M50 engine rebuild thread
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php/43339-M50-Eng-4L30E-Trans-RRR-Far-More-Than-I-Ever-Expected?highlight=93+525+paul
Pull the drive train as a unit. I always do.
'01 540it, 6/01
'03 325i 5 speed, 9/02
'10 535ix. 9/09
'10 mini 6 speed
'15 mini countryman 6 speed
I've done it twice, both times separately. Next time (god forbid), I'll try takingthe whole thing out in one piece.
Dave
10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
*RIP Oskar the DOG *
What convertor or pump issues are raised with separating and joining?
TC should stay in the tranny. Make sure you spin it and push it back in so it seats correctly. Otherwise you will do some damage when you bolt up.
Some very sound advice here:
http://www.europeantransmissions.com...rter_insta.htm
If you are taking the engine out anyway, save yourself a lot of grief and take the tranny out with it.
Thanks, did that. On my domestics I've always just pulled the motor, glad I asked, yanking it intact wasn't too bad. Did it as a one man job, the only part of the whole removal process that was a two man job was pulling the hood.
Have a look...
Major oil leaking mother fletcher. The worst one seems to be at the back passenger side corner of the head to block and the front of the vc was terrible as well.
Last edited by 93 525 Paul; 03-16-2010 at 11:49 PM. Reason: grammar correction
Link to my M50 engine rebuild thread
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php/43339-M50-Eng-4L30E-Trans-RRR-Far-More-Than-I-Ever-Expected?highlight=93+525+paul
Great stuff! Have a look at the bell housing to motor bolts. And the bolts that hold the flex plate to the TC (you have fish for them through the peep hole). Imagine trying to undo them with the motor in place And then trying to line up the tranny and motor to mate them again while lying on your back.
Whisky you have been a big help all through this deal. Thanks for that. I read about that in the Royce/Bentley manual but haven't gone there yet. What are the 3 big bolts accessible through the starter hole? They look like flexplate to TC to me but, at this point my instincts are useless.
I'm still haunted by that $2k 99 M3 Motor on Craigslist...
Link to my M50 engine rebuild thread
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php/43339-M50-Eng-4L30E-Trans-RRR-Far-More-Than-I-Ever-Expected?highlight=93+525+paul
You are very welcome! The bolts are not through the starter hole. Look for a rubber bung in the rear motor flange. Its about 2" diameter. If you are standing in front of the car looking towards the windscreen, it will be at about 25 mins to the hour. You remove the bung and if you turn the motor you will see the heads of the bolts line up with the hole. Imagine looking for them with the front subframe in the way If you are putting the auto back in, then I strongly recommend you use some loctite on those bolts. They dont need to be super tight but you dont want them cutting loose either
Link to my M50 engine rebuild thread
http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php/43339-M50-Eng-4L30E-Trans-RRR-Far-More-Than-I-Ever-Expected?highlight=93+525+paul
Doing it on a 3er looked even worse. This is why i ended up farming out Rolf's clutch to a shop while the NX was DIY ...... solo.
Hang up & Drive!
94 BMW 530iT&A 155K, ‘Helga’ ( TRUSUV 5 & future kinder schleppen )
92 BMW 325i 179K, ‘Rolf’ ( On it's 3rd set of FCA bushings & still the cleanest )
93 Datsun NX2000 190K ‘Carla’ ( Flakey starter & rust gapes )
85 Toyo MR2 140K ‘Jerry’ ( Track toy & much more fun than a Prius )
“When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
- Hunter S. Thompson
Last edited by paul p (chi-town); 03-17-2010 at 11:26 PM.