M30 Crankshaft Seal

[///Sniper535]

I have a front oil leak that's been annoying me for a while now. A few suggestions have been the crankshaft seal. Are these common to failure? If so, what's the best way to get to it?

[aston_jag_tech]

Theres a tool to hold the crank will removing the crank nut. The tools is about $60. The crank nut is torqued to something like 320 ft lbs... A long time ago I removed my crank pulley to replace the chain, etc... I used the tool and a breaker bar with a cheater bar on the end. The total length was about 7 ft. I could have used an impact gun but I didnt because mine couldnt fit between the rad and engine.

[genphreak]

Yea, one starts to worry about bending the crank, those nuts are done sooo tight.

With the oil leak, there are two common locations- high mileage engine is the crankshaft seal. The more likley culprit is the timing chaing tensioner, it sticks out, you'll see it just under the distributor cap.

[Ross]

Has anyone done this using a piston stop, the type that screws into a sparkplug hole?
I though about it but had visions of a punctured piston given the force needed to loosen that f#@%er.

[whiskychaser]

Has anyone done this using a piston stop, the type that screws into a sparkplug hole?
I though about it but had visions of a punctured piston given the force needed to loosen that f#@%er.

Hole in piston and/or stuffed plugs threads
I use a 1/2" socket and breaker bar. Fit socket and wedge end of bar loosely. Then flick the starter.
Warning: do not try this at home

[Mordan]

Theres a tool to hold the crank will removing the crank nut. The tools is about $60. The crank nut is torqued to something like 320 ft lbs... A long time ago I removed my crank pulley to replace the chain, etc... I used the tool and a breaker bar with a cheater bar on the end. The total length was about 7 ft. I could have used an impact gun but I didnt because mine couldnt fit between the rad and engine.

where do you get that tool? I will need it eventually for my M20

thx

[Ross]

Hole in piston and/or stuffed plugs threads
I use a 1/2" socket and breaker bar. Fit socket and wedge end of bar loosely. Then flick the starter.
Warning: do not try this at home

I tried the "rope trick" on an M30 once. I must have had ten yards of rope in the damn cylinder and it would still turn past TDC before that GD bolt would budge.
With a head off I bolted three 3/16" thick steel brackets with holes conveniently spaced across the bore with old head bolts and a large socket in the cylinder as a piston stop. Bent all three brackets but got the bolt off.

I'm sure there is a very German reason for making these so tight.

[ahlem]

I made my own crankshaft tool out of a piece of 1/4"x2" flat steel about 3 feet long. You grind a smile in it for clearance and drill a hole on either side of the smile to accept the bolts. If the motor is in the car. the tool can rest on the ground. I used a long breaker bar to loosen. I calculated how many pounds of force to reinstall.

[genphreak]

where do you get that tool? I will need it eventually for my M20

thx

on eBay, there's a guy in Aus selling them for AU$14.50

Item number:260594152223Item location:Melbourne, VIC, AustraliaPosts to:Worldwide

[genphreak]

I amde one from 40x40x4.0 SHS tube once, bolted it into 2 headstuds with a decent block of wood over the piston top. It worked, no damage. Would be happier using the tool though...