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Thread: Trans Shifting Issue With 1995 530i

  1. #11

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    I will put her back up on jackstands today and fill with engine running.

    I was going by the info on this link. (does not say anything about leaving engine running while filling) Probably why I am having issues now huh?

    Project #23: ZF 5HP18 Transmission Valve Body Overhaul DIY Part 1

    Will inform you what the result was.


    Thanks a bunch!


    Terry

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    4,894

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    The right procedure is with transmission warm... not hot... engine running... keep filling until it comes back out... Plug it up and you are done. it will suck up another 3/4 quart or so..You do this in Park.

    Car must be level and be sure to use jack stands.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Oldham, England
    Posts
    3,078

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    Good to hear you found it of use:-) Yes, the bolts go all the way through and perhaps I should have made that clear. The upper part of the valve body will normally stay in place because it has been there that long. But if you push on the screws you could dislodge it. Long bolts or studs is a nice solution. If you get away without spilling any ATF you are doing well :-)
    Last edited by whiskychaser; 08-24-2012 at 12:27 PM.
    Oct '00 E46 330i. Feb '92 525i (departed)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,268

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    The selector valve inside the valve body was originally made out of a kind of plastic/resin, that breaks on many transmissions, so you have the feeling first that shifting is hard and then you can shift and shift and nothing happens, this part is now made of a new kind of reinforced 'plastic' material, example http://www.thectsc.com/products/sele...alve-84-3.html Product ID : 1056 327 173 01 selector valve
    So basically the same problem as with the small plastic balls in the valve body which get smaller and smaller and finally disappear.
    4 cases I know of within last month, 1 x on an E32 730 M60B30 with 5HP18, another one on an E36 M3 with 5HP18, and one case on an E34 with a 5HP18 and another one on a E36 with 5HP18.
    That part is included in every valve body overhault kit, position 50.020 http://www.zftranspart.com/index.php...t_version=true

    To replace that part you have to remove the transmission oil pan, the trans filter, then losen the valve body and drop it a bit and then you can change that part. No need to disassemble the valve body, but of you want to do so, here we have some pics when we do that in my garage for valve body overhaul http://e32b12.blogspot.jp/search/label/5HP18
    Last edited by shogun; 05-26-2017 at 09:40 AM.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,268

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    New pics and instructions bmw automatic transmission ga6l45r - no forward or reverse 1-series, 3-series-x3-e90-e82-e83 ga6l45r
    REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE
    (used with permission from Bentley Publishers):

    Selector shaft failure description

    BMW E90 models may illuminate the transmission warning lamp and the vehicle will not move either in reverse and / or in forward gears. When the accelerator pedal is pressed engine speed only increases as if the transmission is in the Park or Neutral position. One or more of the following fault codes may be stored in the EGS (transmission control module):
    56B8 – EGS: Ratio Fault R
    56B9 – EGS: clutch, gears 3, 5, and R
    56BB – EGS: Clutch, gears 1, 4, 5, 6 and R: neutral test
    56BD – EGS: Clutch, gears 2 and 6: neutral test
    56BF – EGS: Clutch, gears 1, 2, 3 and 4: neutral test
    The cause may be a broken selector shaft rod. It is easy to misdiagnose this as a faulty transmission of Mechatronic unit. If you have any of the listed fault codes along with the listed symptoms, remove the transmission pan and inspect the selector shaft rod.
    The selector shaft metal rod (A) breaks away from the plastic guide bracket (B).

    Selector shaft rod, replacing
    Remove drain plug (arrow) and drain transmission fluid into suitable container.
    Remove transmission pan fasteners (arrows) then remove transmission pan (A).
    Pull transmission filter straight down and remove.
    Working at rear of valve body, pull down on Mechatronic connector release tab (arrow) to disconnect electrical connector.
    Remove Mechatronic unit fasteners (arrows). The fasteners require a BMW special socket, tool # 24 4 350 to order use part # 83 30 0 495 598. You can use an E12 (inverted Torx socket) if you grind down past the chamfer on the end of socket.
    Lower front of mechatronic unit, then remove while pulling rear out of transmission
    With Mechatronic unit on clean work space, remove fastener (arrow) from selector guide.
    Slide broken selector shaft (A) out of Mechatronic unit.
    Slide new selector shaft rod into Mechatronic unit.
    Align selector shaft (A) onto plastic guide (B), then reinstall guide fastener and tighten.
    Pull out old Mechatronic seals (arrows) and replace with new.
    Working at transmission, pull out old Mechatronic seal (arrow) and replace with new.
    Working at rear of transmission, pull out old Mechatronic electrical connector sealing sleeve and replace with new.
    Reinstall Mechatronic unit rear first, into transmission. Install fasteners and tighten.
    Working at rear of valve body, push Mechatronic connector tab (arrow) up to connect electrical connector.
    Reinstall transmission filter and pan.
    Fill transmission fluid and clear fault codes.
    https://blog.bavauto.com/16677/bmw-a...2-e83-ga6l45r/

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,268

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    updated link with wayback machine bmw-automatic-transmission-no-forward-or-reverse-1-series-3-series-x3-e90-e82-e83
    https://web.archive.org/web/20160707...2-e83-ga6l45r/

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,843

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    Exactly what I will be doing this week!

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    updated link with wayback machine bmw-automatic-transmission-no-forward-or-reverse-1-series-3-series-x3-e90-e82-e83
    https://web.archive.org/web/20160707...2-e83-ga6l45r/
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,268

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    how to change the broken shift valve on a 5HP18 E32, German text, no need to drop the valve body complete, just use longer bolts, see pic
    hier nun meine Erfahrungen mit dem Tausch des Vorwahlventils am 5HP18. Zu meiner ursprünglichen Frage: es muss nicht der gesamte Schaltkasten abgelassen werden, sondern nur die vordere Hälfte (in Fahrtrichtung).
    Hier müssen alle Schrauben gelöst werden. Ich habe mir vier Schrauben M6x100 (mit Gewinde nur am vorderen Teil) an jede Ecke eingeschraubt und konnte das Teil daran stützen (s. Bild). Danach lässt sich das Ventil einfach herausziehen.

    https://ibb.co/BrN649w

    Bitte beachten, dass die Schrauben unterschiedliche Längen haben. Am besten auf einen Karton den Schaltkasten skizzieren und die Schrauben an die passende Stelle stecken, dann fällt der Rückbau deutlich leichter.
    Auch wichtig: Das Ventil läuft oben in einer Führung, beim wieder festschrauben der Schaltkasten-Hälfte unbedingt darauf achten, dass das Ventil nicht verspannt wird. Es muss sich nach Montage leicht vor und zurück bewegen lassen.
    Ich hoffe das hilft mal jemandem,

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    9,268

    Default

    how to change the broken shift valve on a 5HP18 E32, German text, no need to drop the valve body complete, just use longer bolts, see pic
    hier nun meine Erfahrungen mit dem Tausch des Vorwahlventils am 5HP18. Zu meiner ursprünglichen Frage: es muss nicht der gesamte Schaltkasten abgelassen werden, sondern nur die vordere Hälfte (in Fahrtrichtung).
    Hier müssen alle Schrauben gelöst werden. Ich habe mir vier Schrauben M6x100 (mit Gewinde nur am vorderen Teil) an jede Ecke eingeschraubt und konnte das Teil daran stützen (s. Bild). Danach lässt sich das Ventil einfach herausziehen.

    https://ibb.co/BrN649w

    Bitte beachten, dass die Schrauben unterschiedliche Längen haben. Am besten auf einen Karton den Schaltkasten skizzieren und die Schrauben an die passende Stelle stecken, dann fällt der Rückbau deutlich leichter.
    Auch wichtig: Das Ventil läuft oben in einer Führung, beim wieder festschrauben der Schaltkasten-Hälfte unbedingt darauf achten, dass das Ventil nicht verspannt wird. Es muss sich nach Montage leicht vor und zurück bewegen lassen.
    Ich hoffe das hilft mal jemandem,

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