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Thread: Rebuilt Alternator Oddities

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    San Joaquin Valley CA
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    264

    Default Rebuilt Alternator Oddities

    So after 290,000km the original alternator went on old red. The car is a daily driver and the urgency of the situation called for the dreaded AutoZone replacement unit. The captured nut in the original unit's mounting lower rear tab was gone in the replacement. Went back to AZ and looked at several and they are all modified this way. Why would the rebuilder f*ck up the housings this way? Had to get a longer bolt and a nut to remount it. Leaves me feeling half assed and annoyed.
    What the (heck) is the deal?
    Last edited by 93 525 Paul; 05-14-2013 at 01:57 PM.
    Link to my M50 engine rebuild thread
    http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php/43339-M50-Eng-4L30E-Trans-RRR-Far-More-Than-I-Ever-Expected?highlight=93+525+paul


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    4,894

    Default

    Not sure... maybe the part guy who rips them off the junk cars simply used a cut off tool.

    You probably would pay the same price if not lower if you buy rebuilt alternators from autohausAz or BMAparts... or Pelican.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    San Joaquin Valley CA
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    Default Yup yup

    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger View Post
    Not sure... maybe the part guy who rips them off the junk cars simply used a cut off tool.

    You probably would pay the same price if not lower if you buy rebuilt alternators from autohausAz or BMAparts... or Pelican.
    Yeah, but I couldn't wait for it to be shipped. "Ol' Red" is a daily driver and is relied upon for getting to/from work...
    Link to my M50 engine rebuild thread
    http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php/43339-M50-Eng-4L30E-Trans-RRR-Far-More-Than-I-Ever-Expected?highlight=93+525+paul


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Benneton (United Colors of)
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    3,067

    Default

    Did they make you turn in the original as a core?
    The brushes on your alternator (is/was it a bosch?) are ridculously easy to change, and might have fixed your problem.
    I'd roll around on a 180k bosch 140a with replacement brushes, and not worry about nuffin'. Brushes are .50-1 at the appropriate store and the Regulator assembly can't be more than 60. If you still have the original consider popping new brushes in it and testing it at an auto parts store--i'd bet it would still be a perfectly serviceable spare.
    "..Torchinski v. Peterson that it is legal to carry a concealed weapon, so long the weapon is totally slick like a huge ass machine gun that you carry under a trench coat, like in the Matrix."


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    4,894

    Default

    Brushes are easy... but the bearing is what needs to be changed too especially if you got higher mileage. Spin the alternator and see if you can feel or hear bearings... you can tell if you got a new one... silky smooth... old one is kinda like rumbling and metal noises... metal on metal feel... meaning no grease left.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Japan
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    9,263

    Default

    In case someone needs Hella voltage regulators for Bosch alternators, I still have some new on stock and they are in the swap meet - classified ads, 2 versions available, for 28 mm and 14/16mm diameter slip ring.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    San Joaquin Valley CA
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    Default

    My out of town bro is using the car now and he did the R&R so I didn't get to look see. He asked if I wanted to keep the orig but I told him to turn it in...
    Link to my M50 engine rebuild thread
    http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php/43339-M50-Eng-4L30E-Trans-RRR-Far-More-Than-I-Ever-Expected?highlight=93+525+paul


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